Check out my INSTA!
After this project I will definitely update my ULTIMATE PAX HACK GUIDE ON THE INTERNET.
[picture shows Karol Kosnik screwing on a strip of cross-grain 1/2" thick plywood, bow-in towards the inside; a several beads of silicone were applied to the piece just prior to attaching. It is a very artsy photo. Just kidding my friends with screen readers! Hey, is there anything I can do to improve your experience? Send me a message!]
Here is the BEST, absolutely top hacking TIP for PAX Wardrobes -
** Glue in your backs ** - I use silicone for long open time and very good shock absorbing glue line. During traditional install, the back is just nailed in. Over the course of lifetime of the closet items get bumped against it - that pulls out the nails. Once the back comes out everything goes - the box loses integrity, slowly - everything begins to sag and rub. It really depends on your installer. If you glue in your back, follow with some metal sheeting screws - so very short, thin and aggressive - mine are always philips head, and a large flat washer built in - drives in very easily and tight.
Do a 3/4 strip of ply - 5" wide - at the top, attached with 1 1/2" screws - make sure to pre-drill deeper.
Do a thinner strip - I do 1/2 ply, also 5" wide, cross grain because it warps then, apply few beads of silicone, face the bow in [so it always presses the back against the shelves, keeping things closed] and install it a little above half-way point. Attach at edges with 1 1/2" screws AND from the inside I use the same metal sheeting screws [they present visually OK].
I will promise you your PAX will feel like a well sprung drum - the backs just have a really nice tone to it - the box is very solid.
HERE comes the EASY part - all you got to do is level it and screw in into the stud or concrete anywhere along the top - becasuse you got solid 3/4" ply there - takes the 'rocket science' out of it, because I am not a rocket scientist.